Corsair Scimitar Pro Gaming mouse repair.

Yet-Another Corsair mouse repair blog!

We know that some of you may be getting tired of the mouse repair blogs. We apologize for this. For those who read the M65 repair and are back for more. Thanks! We do appreciate your readership! This guide is going to cover the problem along with a quick tear-down and rebuild of the mouse.

 

Video mirrors:

In case you have no-script enabled or for some reason cannot see the title video on this website. I have provided direct links for these videos.

    • WebM – Link – This is the newest video standard, works great on Opera, Firefox, Chrome, and newer android phones, not good for Safari, IE, Apple.
    • MP4 – Link – The most compatible codec but also rather large in file size. Make take a while to download.
    • OGV – Link – the fallback codec for older PC’s and Linux USB stick OS’s. 1st generation web video streaming based on Ogg-Vorbis encoding.

The problem.

The problem according to the box we received this unit in had the words “No lights, no power”. Upon taking out the mouse and looking at it our reaction was the following:

Holy shit! – S

This is nothing like the Razer DeathAdder blog prior where there’s no cuts or anything in the braided cable causing failure. This cable has been chewed upon, tugged, pulled, rubbed up against sharp surfaces to the point where the plastics underneath are sticking out of the braid. This is what happens when someone is gaming so hard they forget how to take care of their hardware. Which is a real shame.

Wear and tear of the Corsair Scimitar.

The rubberized paint is peeling away on this mouse from the intense use. Surprisingly the side-buttons on this mouse are in perfect working order indicating that this mouse was probably used for FPS despite it being an MMO mouse.  We’ll get around to fixing that later. Also this mouse required a ridiculous amount of 409 cleaner as I am totally unsure of what kind of environment it was in.

We’re going to bring this mouse back to life with a re-cabling job! Re-cabling a mouse like this will require almost a tear-down of everything inside which is perfect because you’re going to be seeing how this thing is put together.

Required tools for disassembly and repair.

You will need the following tools:

      • Small Jewelers Phillips screwdriver for removing all of the PCB screws.
      • Small Jewelers Flat-Head Screwdriver for loosening cable clamps.
      • (Optional) Plastic pry-bar. You Could use the screwdriver however metal tends to leave cosmetic damage around the lip of the mouse.
      • Soldering Iron. Any standard 30-35 watt iron should be fine.
      • Solder
      • Cleaning pad to clean your solder.
      • Solder sucker. You could use braid. But don’t like it as it damages the traces on the board you are working on.
      • Shrink Tubing Not pictured (Electrical tape if you’re in a bad spot)

It’s also nice to have a volt meter for basic continuity testing and to make sure your USB connectors are really going where they are supposed to be going.

Disassembly of the Corsair Scimitar

To gain access to the screws on the Corsair Scimitarwe will have to use a knife or a jewelers flat-blade screwdriver to slowly pry the Teflon mouse pads from the bottom. Depending on the age and environment your mouse has been in. The double-sided sticky tape will come off as one piece or may require you to pry a little slower so it all comes off. If this is your first time opening this mouse it should come off and allow us to re-use the tape without having to apply any glues.

Note: for those who have never owned one of these before. The hex screw in the center of the mouse simply adds stiffness to the number pad so it doesn’t slide around during game-play. It will not allow us to get into the mouse so leave that screw alone.

Using your jewelers phillips screwdriver you can now remove the four screws to begin opening this mouse.

Using our trusty cel-phone plastic pry-pic we ca begin popping the tabs that are holding everything in place by starting at the back of the mouse and working forward. Some people suggest that you start at the front and work your way back but we disagree as you’ll be prying on your left/right button plastics which could very easily break. You can use a flat-blade jewelers screwdriver but the metal could scuff the hell out of the plastics. So be careful.

Once inside you get to see all of the glorious parts pictured above. The first thing that we want to do is remove that number pad that’s on the side as parts of it are overlapping into the main board inside and the cable as well. Simply remove the single Phillips screw. Then with the flat-blade jewelers pull up the tabs of either side of the ribbon cable and gently tug on the cable to release.

Note: do not use force on the ribbon cable! Breaking the ribbon cable connector will render your mouse useless!

Once both the ribbon cable and screw are removed you can simply pull up to remove the number pad on the Corsair Scimitar mouse.

A lot of arrows going on but all of it is super-easy so we’ll go through it here.

      • In blue – disconnect the USB Cable. The USB cable is underneath the main board so there’s nothing we can do with it right away.
      • In yellow – Remove the 5 Phillips screws holding the motherboard down.
      • In red – Remove the mouse wheel. This would be a great time to clean the plastic mouse wheel with soap and water as the grooves in the wheel attract dust and dirt really bad!

That’s about it. If you are dealing with sticky mouse buttons this would be the time to flip over the main board on this mouse to begin soldering and replacing said micro switches.

The main board should pull straight up from its base.

After this we can finally remove the mouse cable from the base plate. To remove the custom boot-plug from the front of the mouse you may need to use a jewlers flat-head to wedge into the underside in order for the cable to pop out. Corsair was a group of assholes for making custom molding instead of going with a standard boot or even just straight-running it into the channel. We’re going to change that as well.

Once the cable is removed this would be a great time to clean out all of the dust and crap that was building up around the laser optics of this mouse.

The asshole factor of corsair doesn’t stop from using a custom boot but also a smaller 5-pin interface versus conventional USB cable connectors which prevents us from doing a simple re-pin job like we did with Razer mice. This means we’ll have to cut the cables on both of them, solder, and shrink tube it together to make something usable. We’re not terrible concerned re-using the wires of the corsair so close to the USB connector because those cables were inside the mouse and were not destroyed from the abuse the braided portion went through. Or so we hope!

Upon prepping the cable from the generic USB mouse we got from a dell over to this Corsair Scimitar. We realized the channel was super-narrow because the insulation around the wires were almost non-existent in contract to the generic Dell USB mouse that we’re using. This means that we have to strip away an additional three inches of cable so it fits along the channel. After a lot of careful wire stripping and soldering. We not only shrink tubed up our connections; But also the three inches of insulation so the wires are rubbing raw against the channels of this mouse. Ideally there should only be an inch of slack after you’re done. We found it very difficult to close the mouse with two inches of slack what what is shown above.

Oudated BIOS.

 

Video mirrors:

In case you have no-script enabled or for some reason cannot see the title video on this website. I have provided direct links for these videos.

    • WebM – Link – This is the newest video standard, works great on Opera, Firefox, Chrome, and newer android phones, not good for Safari, IE, Apple.
    • MP4 – Link – The most compatible codec but also rather large in file size. Make take a while to download.
    • OGV – Link – the fallback codec for older PC’s and Linux USB stick OS’s. 1st generation web video streaming based on Ogg-Vorbis encoding.

Now this should be the point where I would show you the mouse is working and give my final thoughts about this particular mouse. But no, the fun doesn’t end there. This particular mouse was broken and unused for more then a year. Unlike Razer which doesn’t give a shit if you’re running a old firmware and instead will just have their program nag you for an update. Corsair decided to take a total dick approach by not even using default color schemes. Instead, they are going to make your mouse flash this annoying purple at you until you do something about it in your Corsair Utility. This in turn forces the user to download their bloatware utility onto their PC. Not to mention prey that end-user is running a Windows based environment to do the update properly on.

Now my repair DOES work. If it didn’t then there would be absolutely no detected in Device manager as well as the Corsair Gaming Utility. HID\VID_1B1C&PID_1B1E is the ID underneath a windows 7 environment.

Updating the mouse is however easy. First you might want to check for updates at the bottom to entire you have the latest Corsair Gaming Utility. Next, you’ll want to click on the advanced button and there should be an update icon next to your Corsair Scimitar. Click on that icon and it should push new firmware down to your mouse.

After the flash your Corsair Scimitar mouse should return to default colors and ready for you to modify within the Corsair Gaming Utility.

 

 

Video mirrors:

In case you have no-script enabled or for some reason cannot see the title video on this website. I have provided direct links for these videos.

    • WebM – Link – This is the newest video standard, works great on Opera, Firefox, Chrome, and newer android phones, not good for Safari, IE, Apple.
    • MP4 – Link – The most compatible codec but also rather large in file size. Make take a while to download.
    • OGV – Link – the fallback codec for older PC’s and Linux USB stick OS’s. 1st generation web video streaming based on Ogg-Vorbis encoding.

Final Thoughts.

Corsair wants to believe that they are new and innovative with putting a number pad on a mouse. That it’s some sort of new way to control your game. Which we’re sorry to report that we’re old enough to remember the early 80’s of gaming where the Intellevision and ColecoVision also thought that it was revolutionary to put number-pads onto devices where there shouldn’t be. Or to be more precise that people know how to use a telephone so using a controller or mouse is the same thing. It’s a very conservative stance that we thought died out long ago. But hey, thanks for the necromancy Corsair!

Be it as it may there may still be a use for mice such as the Corsair Scimitar just not the way Corsair thinks. In the world of streaming such as “Open Broadcast Streamer” or OBS for short you sometimes assign macros for special video effects and transitions. As you can setup numbers 1 through 12 as F13-F24 which most keyboards wouldn’t have. Another thing that could come in handy is games such as Fortnite where they want to use a convoluted control scheme to build as well as inventory management and fight having a number pad may be a little more handy then having the Corsair M65 mouse where the ‘sniper’ button simply slows down the DPI rate.

When it comes to Corsair products in general, we do like the builds of these units. but certain aspects need to be better. Like actually having an NVRAM state on your gaming keyboards and mice so that it can actually remember the last color scheme it had without the assistance of the Corsair Gaming Utility. We suppose we could’ve made our build a little better be salvaging the boot. Rotary tooling or drilling out the wire inside to line our own. But that mouse cable isn’t going to go anywhere. At least as long as I don’t flail it around like a morning star such as what the last user probably did.

Anyways, That’s all server has to say.

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